The history of feminism and its influence on the fashion industry.

BY JASMIN TAGIEVA

There is no doubt that the fashion industry has an enormous impact on woman's image. How a woman should look? What body type is a trend now? And many other questions that the fashion industry is ready to respond to. However, there is one movement that had and still has an impact on the fashion industry itself. It is feminism.

Before we start talking about the history of feminism and its influence on fashion, it is definitely worth paying attention to the emergence of modern fashion. It became possible thanks to the fashion system that began to develop in France during the reign of King Louis XIV. Since that time, France has managed to maintain its reputation as a trendsetter, and Paris has remained the center of world fashion to this day. And this is although, at that time, there were constant wars and revolutions on the territory of this country. Throughout the 17th - 19th centuries, the styles of clothing were constantly changing, becoming more complex, then simplifying. Since the middle of the 19th century, changes began to occur in fashion, which more and more brought it closer to modernity. Elements of the men's suit began to penetrate the women's wardrobe, the appearance of sportswear was outlined, and the trend of simplifying the forms of clothing was emerging. An important figure in the development of modern fashion is Paul Poiret, a French fashion designer. He created new trends in fashion, thereby changing the course of life and style in America and in Europe. And many journalists begin the history of feminism in fashion with this designer and Coco Chanel, but this is wrong.

Of course, these people have contributed to the development of feminism in the fashion industry. For example, in the early 1900s, Coco Chanel introduced black into the women's wardrobe, which previously belonged only to men. She was also the first person who started simplifying women's costumes. In 1905, Paul Poiret (since it was in this year that the fashion shifted from fluffy skirts and corsets to spacious flowing dresses) freed women from corsets, but he believed that a woman is a trinket for a man that should please his eyes. These people were the founders of the simplification of women's wardrobe, which contributed to the blurring of some stereotypes.

However, wearing "men's" clothes is not feminism at all.

Tweed Suits by Coco Chanel

And even Yves Saint Laurent, who, much later than Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret, introduced women's fashion into the old feminist channel after the war, cannot be a "revolutionary". Yes, he was the first person who dressed women in tuxedos and combed their hair back, and it was thanks to him that women's tuxedos became the norm.

The first women's costumes of Yves Saint Laurent

But the real feminist revolution in fashion took place in the 80s - 90s, at the same time when feminism won a victory in society. This event is associated with the appearance and great popularity of such designers as Yoji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Gilles Zander and Helmut Lang, and the Antwerp Six. These are completely new designers, thanks to whom fashion has become considered a part of art. However, none of this would have happened if it hadn't been for Simone de Beauvoir and Hannah Arendt.

Let's talk a little more about the above designers. These are great people who made a revolution and presented fashion from a completely different angle.

Yohji Yamamoto is a Japanese fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. He sewed clothes for girls who preferred male silhouettes. At his run-away shows, people did not look at the models that clothes represent, but exclusively at clothes. This great designer showed in his collections that a woman is not a sexual object.

Thanks to Rei Kawakubo, fashion turned upside down. The girl was born in Japan. She always sewed clothes for herself, as she was not similar in build to an ordinary Japanese woman. Also, she was uncomfortable in clothes sold in stores. The girl never liked the symmetry, her works were unique, and it was impossible to find something like this in Japan. Having conquered Japan in 1980, Rei went to Paris and a year later presented her unusual collection at the show. After that, her business went only uphill and in the following years, she always surprised the audience. Especially in 1997, Rey showed one of the most iconic collections, she was called "hunchbacked" for the abundance of overlays that deformed the female figure. Kawakubo is a tireless innovator who has radically changed the fashion industry.

Comme des Garçons fall 2016 - Rei Kawakubo

Also, I would like to show you one more collection by Rei Kawakubo. That "humpback" collection. It's a masterpiece!

The Antwerp Six became no less iconic fashion designers in the history of the influence of feminism on fashion, which we will talk about in more detail in the following article.

Over time, fashion has become more intellectual, and designers have made it a part of art. But it is important to note that by the end of the 20th century, fashion and ideas are both about beauty and the female body began to change.

Finally, society realized that a woman is not an object but a subject. Clothes have become a way of expressing personality and not an ornament on women for men. From now on, to remain fashionable, you need to be not only beautiful but also modern, and manifest yourself in individual images. Clothing has become a way of self-expression, thanks to it people can imagine themselves and show the depth of their personality.

WOMEN'S WORLD